The Lori region in northern Armenia is the country's wildest and most forested corner. The Debed river and its tributaries have carved deep gorges over millennia, and the medieval Armenian kingdom of Kiurikids took advantage of these natural fortifications to build some of the most dramatically sited monasteries in the world.
Haghpat and Sanahin — both UNESCO World Heritage Sites — stand on a plateau above the gorge, their stone carving considered the peak of medieval Armenian architecture. Come early in the morning before tour groups arrive, and walk the footpath between them through the village.
Kobayr is barely visited. It sits on a cliff ledge above the railway line, its frescoes still visible inside the main hall. The path up involves some scrambling, and the monastery is not staffed, but this is exactly what makes it extraordinary. Bring a torch.
Akhtala is a fortified monastery with some of the best-preserved Byzantine frescoes in the entire South Caucasus — painted in a Georgian-Byzantine style that reflects the complex politics of the 12th century. The caretaker can point out details invisible to the untrained eye.
Practical tip: Lori is best explored with a 4WD in early spring or autumn when forest roads are passable. The regional capital Vanadzor has good guesthouses. Allow at least two full days — the distances are short on a map but the mountain roads make everything take twice as long.